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The List 2004/2005 The Mackintosh-inspired space that is the Art Lovers' Cafe feels timelessly elegant. Its soothing white interior (and pleasant service) tends to coax diners into a comfortable, relaxed state. Splashes of colour are provide by paintings, as well as by the arrangements of long-stemmed flowers reminiscent of Mackintosh's floral studies. The best tables are positioned to bathe in the daylight that pours through the arc-shaped latticed windows. Starters, such as a tangy smoked haddock rarebit, are artistically presented while the braised lamb shank practically falls away at the touch of fork. The combination of duckling breast with red wine, caramelised onions and buttered pear offer a sharp balance of ingredients. Puddings are surpisingly huge; the banoffee pie is no excetion but its richness is lightened by a zesty passion fruit ice-cream. In all, Art Lovers' Cafe is excellent value: similar cuisine on a formal dinner menu elsewhere might fetch twice the price. |
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